On a watch face, you don’t have so much room to play with. They are a simple way to decorate what would otherwise be a large, block-colored space. The stripe is continued onto the strap, where a ribbon of color takes over from the printed lines on the dial. In terms of visual links to speed and daring, Zenith have decorated the right hand side of the silvered, open-heart dial, with a tricolor racing stripe in blue, white, and red. And it is fair to say, however successful or otherwise you think they might have been, that Zenith have had a damn good go. When a watch lacks the kind of authenticity Zenith claim to have installed in the Zenith El Primero Chronomaster 1969 Tour Auto Edition, it has to be synthesized. There is nothing patently obvious about the Tag Heuer Monaco to suggest its motor racing heritage (it isn’t even round!). When watches try and point your interpretation of them in a certain direction, it often feels a little conscious. I find the explanation for the stylistic decisions made interesting and a valuable conversation piece, but that doesn’t mean I think it works in the metal. The idea that those three values would leap out of the dial without any prior knowledge of Zenith’s mission statement is pretty crazy. In the case of the Zenith El Primero Chronomaster 1969 Tour Auto Edition, I would say the opposite. It gets its pedigree not from snazzy design cues or hidden visual messages, rather from being there, on the wrist of icons. In my opinion, the Tag Heuer Monaco is a great example of the former (for a classic example, check out this article, and for an avant-garde update of the watch, have a look at this recent release). Sometimes, when brands try and attach such emotive characteristics to a watch, it works brilliantly sometimes, it feels a bit forced. Supposedly, this has been achieved by referencing the grit, glamour, and gut-churning speed associated with motor sports in the watch’s aesthetic. Through their association with these prestigious races, Zenith hopes to reaffirm their three core values – authenticity, daring, and pleasure. Last year, Zenith became the official timekeeper for five of the official motor car races organized by Peter Auto (a company, not an aptly named individual). So let’s start with the message that Zenith were trying to deliver with the Zenith El Primero Chronomaster 1969 Tour Auto Edition. And, in this case, how expensive the skin makes the bones… It is the case, dial, and message that will, in my opinion, determine the success of each watch to feature the reliable El Primero. With my faith in the performance and enduring aesthetic of Zenith’s most famous calibre unwavering, my first concern is always how they choose to house the movement. No one can fault their longevity or performance, but the Zenith El Primero matches up well in both categories while blasting the back doors of its rivals in the style stakes.Ĭonsidering the money Zenith charge for an El Primero in one of their standard chronograph models, you’re getting a really handsome calibre for your buck. These are movements that function superbly well, but sometimes lack a little bit of an edge in terms of appearance. Many watch aficionados will be familiar with (maybe even tired of), ETA’s family of ‘tractor’ movements, such as the 2824 base calibre or the 7750 chronograph. It is, in my mind, the definitive luxury workhorse. The El Primero has gone on to reach a level of reverence modern movements will hope to emulate or exceed. Although the marketing material focuses on Zenith’s entire history, the truth is that the Zenith El Primero Chronomaster 1969 Tour Auto Edition pays homage to a development made 46 years ago when Zenith released the world’s first integrated chronograph calibre. Zenith are making the most of their 150th anniversary, and the Zenith El Primero Chronomaster 1969 Tour Auto Edition is the latest celebratory piece to be revealed by the brand.
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